Hospitals adding fresh, organic food to the menu
An increasing number of hospitals across the country are picking up on
the farmers market ethic, with some growing their own vegetables,
hosting on-site markets and moving toward wholly organic meals.
More hospitals in the U.S. are offering organic produce and hormone- and
antibiotic-free meats and dairy foods in response to a trend toward
healthier eating habits.
By Elena Conis
April 27, 2009
The days of bland chicken, reconstituted potatoes, frozen peas and a
side of syrupy, canned peaches appear to be coming to a close at a
growing number of hospitals across the U.S.
Spurred by patient demand, concerns about setting a healthful example
and a desire to make notoriously bad hospital food nutritious and
appetizing, more hospitals are making strides in serving their
patients fresh, organic and local produce alongside meats and dairy
foods that are hormone- and antibiotic-free, as well as minimally
processed.
Some hospitals have taken small steps -- eliminating trans fats from
their menus or switching to dairy products free of the growth hormone rBGH.
Others have taken on bigger overhauls: The chef at Dominican Hospital in
Santa Cruz cooks with produce from the hospital's on-site vegetable garden;
Chicago's Swedish Covenant Hospital is gradually moving toward meals that
are entirely organic.
Hospitals are implementing the changes largely in response to consumer
trends, says Joyce Hagen-Flint, director of food and nutrition services at
Regional Medical Center Bayonet Point in Hudson, Fla.
"In the general population, people are becoming more conscious of what's in
the food on their plate, where it came from and its overall impact from a
financial, health and economic perspective," says Hagen-Flint, who is also
on the board of directors of the Assn. of Healthcare Food Services.
But some of the changes are also prompted by a realization that hospitals
can be a model of healthful eating, says Jamie Harvie, food coordinator for
the Arlington, Va.-based advocacy group Health Care Without Harm. Some
hospitals are eschewing antibiotic-treated meats over concerns that
antibiotics given to livestock generate drug-resistant bacteria. Others are
eliminating deep-fried foods and foods containing trans fats, which have
been linked to heart disease.
At St. Luke's Hospital in Duluth, Minn., patients are now served locally
raised bison, and at Good Shepherd Hospital in Hermiston, Ore., they're
being offered grass-fed beef -- in part because both options are lower in
overall fat than standard, grain-fed beef.
Those two hospitals are among nearly 250 nationwide that have signed a
pledge, promoted by Health Care Without Harm, to serve more fresh fruits and
vegetables, forgo heavily processed foods and trans fats, and provide
patients hormone-free milk and organic produce when possible. In a 2008
survey of hospitals that have taken the pledge, 72% said they were buying
local produce, 81% had switched to rBGH-free milk, and 44% were switching to
antibiotic- and hormone-free meats.
Of course, these hospitals constitute a minority among the more than 7,500
in the U.S. But at national healthcare food industry meetings, more
hospitals are expressing interest in following the trend, Hagen-Flint says.
A major barrier, however, is cost, she says: "Hospitals are interested, but
they're not sure they can afford to do it."
Some cost-conscious hospitals are looking to Kaiser Permanente of Northern
California as a model. It started hosting in-hospital farmers markets in
2003, and in 2006 began partnering with small, local farms to provide
patients with organic strawberries in late spring, fresh cherry tomatoes in
summer, and other produce items as they came into season.
To offset the sometimes pricier items, Kaiser is attempting to cut food
production costs elsewhere, says Jan Sanders, Kaiser's director of national
nutrition services. "Years ago, there would have been a dessert on every
tray. Now patients get fresh, seasonal fruit" -- and dessert only if
requested, Sanders says.
That may sound like a step toward more healthful hospital fare, but the
direct health benefit of serving patients fresh, local foods is limited,
says Dr. Preston Maring, associate physician in chief for Kaiser Permanente
East Bay Medical Center in Oakland.
"The meals eaten during a three- to five-day hospital stay won't change
patients' health, because it's not a long-term dietary change," Maring says.
"But it is a consistent and visible reminder to everyone that what we eat is
important for good health."
Fresh, whole foods also help create what Maring (who started Kaiser's first
farmers market) refers to as a healing environment. "A perfectly ripe peach
can be a great comfort for someone just coming out of surgery," he says.
Hospitals, of course, need to provide variety, if only to meet the needs of
patients with diverse dietary restrictions and limitations. As a result, no
matter how many hospitals buy vegetables or beef from local farmers,
hospital food "can't ever be 100% fresh and local," Sanders says.
Nonetheless, the trend toward fresher and even more local and organic
hospital food will likely continue -- if only because of patient demand.
"There's tremendous competition in healthcare," Harvie says. "It's a
powerful driver for change."
health@latimes.com
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