Andean Journal: Protecting the Inka LegacyBy José Barreiro, Special to Today
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Dr. Matos is beside himself. “This is new! None of the scientists have registered this.” |
The Qhapac ñan, or Royal Road, was the
Way of the Inka, an extension of main and tributary roads – some 23,000
kilometers – that integrated the lives of a population of nearly 10
million people from over 40 indigenous nations. Its center or chawpi is
the sacred city of Cuzco, often described as “the navel of the world.”
Early Spanish chroniclers compared Cuzco with Jerusalem, as travelers
were to purify themselves before entering the city, a rite that
continued to the 1940s and perhaps to the present.
“Easy boy, don’t fall now,” Lucio Illa Mesa, our local host, calls out
in Quechua to his son, but the boy is practiced at his climbing and hops
ahead confidently, actually leading our group.
Ramiro Matos, Quechua, archeologist and curator at the
National Museum of the
American Indian, walks briskly to keep up. Matos has a keen eye for
evidence of all ancient inhabitation. He stops suddenly, arm extended.
“Do you see it? Tell me if you see it.” We have been playing this game
for days. The old Inka road we seek to trace is often hidden in
cultivated plots and overgrown with vegetation but here and there it
emerges, characteristically buttressed by tightly-placed boulders. Then
I see it, certainly there it is, snaking along the contours of the hill
and coming our way. “Excellent,” the old professor tells his
not-so-young student. “You get high marks today.”
But there is more. Lucio and his boy are deviating right on the trail.
Lucio wants to show us something special. Higher up the hill, along a
peak known in the oral memory as “the nose of the condor,” there is a
set of rock drawings, in red paint and depicting multiple llamas.
Academic researchers have often studied those. They have come, more than
once, to photograph, draw and describe the centuries-old pictographs,
filing scholarly reports that layer one upon another.
But Lucio Illa, son of a long line of Quechua grandfathers, knows more.
This we recognize and respect, that here, in his home grounds, he is the
true expert. Lucio perceives our attitude and freely shares new
knowledge. To the right, off the beaten academic path, something
wonderful emerges. He points out the ruins of an old INKA tambo, or
“tampu,” one of the periodic way stations or rest stops one can find
along the whole of the Inka roads. Dr. Matos is beside himself. “This is
new! None of the scientists have registered this.”
This whole region of Peru is replete with countless ruins – remnants of many peoples and several civilizations. |
“Let me show you,” says Illa, pointing
to a central stone in the ancient wall. There, too, faded but visible,
is a picture of a red llama. Matos notes the archeological and cultural
importance. The drawings clearly mark the place as sacred.
Speaking mostly in Quechua, Lucio Illa tells us the story. He knows the
Inka road of his district well. Along the road, which he describes with
reverence, he knows of several tambos. To him, the road is sacred, it is
alive, and everything about it is to be respected, protected. “See
here,” he says, pointing where the painted stone has been disturbed.
“Thieves; they come in the night and try to pry it loose,” he explains,
his countenance troubled, then a smile. “But the llamas and the sheep
squeal in the night. So we fight off the thieves, and more than once.”
Beyond the mutual respect, he has a strong concern. “Friends,” he says,
“what can we do to protect this sacred thing?”
He has requested help from the
National Institute of Culture, which is charged with such a task,
but they are not forthcoming, perhaps overextended. This whole region of
Peru is replete with countless ruins – remnants of many peoples and
several civilizations, of which the Inka were but the last, in place at
the coming of the Spanish advance.
So Lucio Illa has taken it upon himself, along with other members of his
community, to defend the country’s patrimony. “The last time,” he says,
“the thieves were armed. We worry for our safety but still, we are on
guard.”
Later, at the patio of his Andean homestead, over a meal of boiled
potatoes and the large-kernel corn found only in this region, Lucio
notes my long hair. Up to the time of his grandfather, when he was a
young boy, he recalls that the men of his community wore their hair
long. “Not just to the shoulders,” he says, ‘but long to the waist.”
Everyone then dressed in dark clothes and performed ceremonies to the
mountain authority spirits, called “apus,” and to the “Pachamama,” the
Mother Earth. It was the military that made the men shave their heads.
Then, the evangelical cults came in, dividing the community so that not
only thieves threaten the patrimonial sites, but the cults as well.
Charging that the petroglyphs are the work of the devil they would try
to erase or destroy them. He would like to carry on with his traditional
dress, Lucio complains, but many of the converted ridicule it and attack
the traditionally-minded for “backwardness and idolatry.”
Still, he says, “I continue to carry out my ceremonies. We make our
payment to the Pachamama. We will defend the legacy of our ancestors.”
Matos wonders about where the nearby Inka road is leading. “The Inka
road always leads to Cuzco,” Illa replies. “Of course,” says Matos, “the
navel of the world.” Matos smiles, nodding in recognition and
appreciation; it is his method always, and the museum’s, to seek the
knowledge of the indigenous people of a place. “You might read the
reports and never know a tambo existed here,” he says. “But you see,
this man knows his land. He knows what is here; more than any so-called
expert academic.”
The boy walks by with another young cousin, slingshots in hand, lively
faces full of mischief. “Will the next generation carry on the ancient
culture,” we wonder.
“I teach them that they should,” Lucio responds. “It’s not easy, but we
mean to continue in that way.”
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