This article was published in partnership with
GlobalPossibilities.org.
If acclaimed authors Upton Sinclair (
The Jungle ), Jeremy Rifkin ( Beyond Beef
) and John Robbins ( Diet for a New America )
haven’t given you enough reasons over the last century
to be wary of the meat industry, then a
year-long
investigation by the Kansas City Star may
do the trick.
Mike McGraw kicks off the KC Star’s
investigative series by introducing Margaret
Lamkin, who has been forced to wear a colostomy bag for
the rest of her life, after a medium-rare steak she
ordered three years ago at Applebee’s was contaminated
with a pathogen. The resulting illness destroyed her
colon.
Of course we already know about E. coli
and other food-borne pathogens; people have gotten sick
from everything from spinach to peanut butter. But the
news here is that what sickened Lamkin wasn’t just the
meat, but a process the industry uses to tenderize it.
McGraw explains :
The Kansas City Star
investigated what the industry calls “bladed” or
“needled” beef, and found the process exposes
Americans to a higher risk of E. coli poisoning than
cuts of meat that have not been tenderized.
... Although blading and injecting
marinades into meat add value for the beef industry,
that also can drive pathogens — including the E.
coli O157:H7 that destroyed Lamkin’s colon — deeper
into the meat.
By using this process (which according to
the story, 90 percent of processors will use, depending
on the cut), people are at a greater risk of exposure to
life-threatening illness. And consumers have no way of
knowing whether their meat has undergone this process.
Ending up with a fecal-contaminated burger
is bad, but it’s just the beginning of what the
investigation uncovered. Here are the other key
findings, as
McGraw writes :
• Large beef plants, based on
volume alone, contribute disproportionately to the
incidence of meat-borne pathogens.
• Big Beef and other processors
are co-mingling ground beef from many different
cattle, some from outside the United States, adding
to the difficulty health officials have tracking
contaminated products to their source. The industry
also has resisted labeling some products, including
mechanically tenderized meat, to warn consumers and
restaurants to cook it thoroughly.
• Big Beef is injecting millions
of dollars of growth hormones and antibiotics into
cattle, partly to fatten them quickly for market.
Many experts believe that years of overuse and
misuse of such drugs contributes to
antibiotic-resistant pathogens in humans, meaning
illnesses once treated with a regimen of antibiotics
are much harder to control.
• Big Beef is using its
political pull, public relations campaigns and the
supportive science it sponsors to influence federal
dietary guidelines and recast steaks and burgers as
"health foods" people should eat every day. It even
persuaded the American Heart Association to certify
beef as “heart healthy.”
Read the full investigation, and think
about how this scenario fits into the larger picture of
what we deem acceptable as a food system. Just last
month Consumer Reports shared frightening
findings about pork .
And there is a ray of good news. Ocean
Robbins
wrote today:
People are taking an increasing
interest in the way that the animals raised for food
are treated. In fact, a poll conducted by Lake
Research partners found that 94 percent of Americans
agree that animals raised for food on farms deserve
to be free from cruelty. Nine U.S. states have now
joined the entire European Union in banning
gestational crates for pigs, and Australia's two
largest supermarket chains now sell only cage-free
eggs in their house brands.