If you eat seafood, unless you catch it yourself or ask the right
questions, the odds are pretty good it comes from a fish farm. The
aquaculture industry is like a whale on steroids, growing faster
than any other animal agriculture segment and now accounting for
half the fish eaten in the U.S.
As commercial fishing operations continue to strip the world’s
oceans of life, with one-third of fishing stocks
collapsed and the rest headed there by mid-century, fish farming
is seen as a way to meet the world’s growing demand. But is it
really the silver bullet to solve the Earth’s food needs? Can marine
farms reliably satisfy the seafood cravings of three billion people
around the globe?
This article looks at aquaculture and its long-term effects on
fish, people, and other animals. With this industry regularly touted
as a paragon of food production, whether you eat seafood or not, you
should know these nine key facts about farmed fish.
1. Farmed fish have dubious nutritional value.
Here’s a frustrating paradox for those who eat fish for their
health: the nutritional benefits of fish are greatly decreased when
it’s farmed. Take omega-3 fatty acids. Wild fish get their omega-3’s
from aquatic plants. Farmed fish, however, are often fed corn, soy,
or other feedstuffs that contain
little or no omega-3’s. This unnatural, high-corn diet also
means some farmed fish accumulate unhealthy levels of the
wrong fatty acids. Further, farmed fish are routinely dosed with
antibiotics, which can cause
antibiotic-resistant disease in humans.
2. The farmed fishing industry robs Peter to pay Paul.
While some farmed fish can live on diets of corn or soy, others
need to eat fish – and lots of it. Tuna and salmon, for example,
need to eat up to
five pounds of fish for each pound of body weight. The result is
that prey (fish like anchovies and herring) are being fished to the
brink of extinction to feed the world’s fish farms. “We have caught
all the big fish and now we are going after their food,” says the
non-profit Oceana, which blames aquaculture’s voracious hunger
for declines of whales, dolphins, seals, sea lions, tuna, bass,
salmon, albatross, penguins, and other species.
3. Fish experience pain and stress.
Contrary to the wishful thinking of many a catch-and-release
angler, the latest research shows conclusively that fish
experience pain and stress. In
one study, fish injected with bee venom engaged in rocking
behavior linked to pain and, compared to control groups, reduced
their swimming activity, waited three times longer to eat, and had
higher breathing rates. Farmed fish are subject to the
routine stresses of hyperconfinement throughout their lives, and
are typically killed in slow, painful ways like evisceration,
starvation, or asphyxiation.
4. Farmed fish are loaded with disease, and this spreads
to wild fish populations.
Farmed fish are packed as tightly as coins in a purse, with
twenty-seven adult trout, for example, typically scrunched into a
bathtub-sized space. These unnatural conditions give rise to
diseases and parasites, which often migrate off the farm and infect
wild fish populations. On Canada’s Pacific coast, for example, sea
lice infestations are responsible for
mass kill-offs of pink salmon that have destroyed 80% of the
fish in some local populations. But the damage doesn’t end there,
because eagles, bears, orcas, and other predators depend on salmon
for their existence. Drops in wild salmon numbers cause these
species to
decline as well.
5. Fish farms are rife with toxins, which also damage
local ecosystems.
You can’t have diseases and parasites infecting your economic
units, so operators fight back by dumping concentrated antibiotics
and other chemicals into the water. Such toxins damage local
ecosystems in ways we’re just beginning to understand.
One study found that a drug used to combat sea lice kills a
variety of nontarget marine invertebrates, travels up to half a
mile, and persists in the water for hours.
6. Farmed fish are living in their own feces.
That’s right, fish poop too. Farmed fish waste falls as sediment
to the seabed in sufficient quantities to overwhelm and kill marine
life in the immediate vicinity and for some distance beyond. It also
promotes algal growth, which reduces water’s oxygen content and
makes it hard to support life. When the Israeli government learned
that algal growth driven by two fish farms in the Red Sea was
hurting nearby coral reefs, it shut them down.
7. Farmed fish are always trying to escape their
unpleasant conditions, and who can blame them?
In the North Atlantic region alone, up to two million
runaway salmon escape into the wild each year. The result is
that at least 20% of supposedly wild salmon caught in the North
Atlantic are of
farmed origin. Escaped fish breed with wild fish and compromise
the gene pool, harming the wild population. Embryonic hybrid salmon,
for example, are far less viable than their wild counterparts, and
adult hybrid salmon routinely
die earlier than their purebred relatives. This pressure on wild
populations further hurts predators who rely on fish like bears and
orcas.
8. See: the Jevons Paradox.
This counterintuitive economic theory says that as production
methods grow more efficient, demand for resources actually increases
– rather than decreasing, as you might expect. Accordingly, as
aquaculture makes fish production increasingly efficient, and fish
become more widely available and less expensive, demand increases
across the board. This drives more fishing, which hurts wild
populations. Thus, as the construction of new salmon hatcheries from
1987 to 1999 drove lower prices and wider availability of salmon,
world demand for salmon increased
more than fourfold during the period. The net result: fish
farming cranks up the pressure on already-depleted populations of
wild fish around the world.
9. When the heavy environmental damage they cause is
taken into account, fish farming operations often are found to
generate more costs than revenues.
One study found that aquaculture in Sweden’s coastal waters “is
not only ecologically but also economically unsustainable.” Another
report concluded that fish farming in a Chinese lake is an
“economically irrational choice from the perspective of the whole
society, with an unequal tradeoff between environmental costs and
economic benefits.” Simply put, aquaculture drives heavy ecological
harms and these cost society money. In the U.S., fish farming drives
hidden costs of roughly $700 million each year – or
half the annual production value of fish farming operations.
Now What?
With its long trail of diseases, chemicals, wastes, and
suffering, and the heavy pressure it puts on wild populations
through parasites, escapes, and higher demand, the sustainability of
fish farms emerges as a fish story. And by the way, farmed or wild,
fish are only “healthy” when compared to high-fat foods like red
meat. But wild fish is no great nutritional treat either: pound for
pound, salmon has
just as much cholesterol as ground beef, and virtually all wild
fish contains highly-toxic
mercury.
Here’s one solution to the farmed fish dilemma: vote with your
pocketbook and eat less seafood or give it up completely. Get your
omega-3’s from flax, hemp, soy, or walnuts – all without cholesterol
or mercury. And just maybe, as George W. Bush hoped in a moment of
unintended comedy, “the human being and fish can coexist
peacefully.”
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