Increasing Healthy Locally Grown
Food—The Good Food Movement
February 15, 2015
Story at-a-glance
-
Family Farmed is a non-profit organization that
connects farmers, supermarkets, and trade buyers to
build a system of local food channels.
-
Chicago Public Schools, which sources apples,
broccoli, cabbage, antibiotic-free chicken and other
foods from local farmers, is one of the success
stories of this local food movement.
-
Food hubs are also popping up around the US. They
serve an important role as intermediaries by
aggregating local food from local farmers, which is
then redistributed to supermarkets, restaurants, or
other wholesale buyers
By Dr. Mercola
A reliable source of fresh locally grown food is essential if you
want to stay healthy. Jim Slama has promoted environmental
sustainability for more than two decades, and his organization,
Family Farmed, is a major supporter and proponent of the Good Food
Movement.
For many years, he published a natural living magazine called
Conscious Choice, which had a circulation of about 50,000
copies. Eventually, the media recession, followed by the Great
Recession, killed the magazine.
In the midst of doing Conscious Choice, Jim reported on
an incinerator in Chicago1
that was putting out 150,000 pounds of lead per year into the local
environment.
Appalled, he got together with friends in the advertising
industry, and created an ad campaign featuring the story of two kids
who lived near the facility. "Lo and behold, we shut it down
within six months," he says. "It was very exciting."
A foundation gave him $400,000 dollars to start an environmental
communications group, and the first major campaign, “Keep Organic
Organic,” was created in response to the US Department of
Agriculture’s (USDA) proposal to allow genetically engineered food
grown in sewage sludge to be called “organic.”
The USDA got 275,000 comments in opposition as a result of these
efforts and the entire massive grass-roots response. The agency then
raised the white flag and agreed to keep genetically modified
organisms (GMOs) and many other toxic things out of the organic
standards.
Next, Jim decided he wanted to do a Buy Local campaign.
“That summer, I went out to local stores and supermarkets
to see what kind of local organic food was available, and
realized that other than Whole Foods and a few farmers markets,
which had little bit, there was none available.
There are so many benefits with local sustainably
produced food. They’re obviously healthy, because it’s fresher
if it’s grown closer to home and preferably organic. If they are
grown without pesticides, it will have a positive impact on the
local ecosystem.
But then also you're reducing carbon footprints, you're
helping support family farmers, and you're helping to support
local economic development in those communities.
At that point, we decided 'Let's figure out what it's
going to take to create local food systems.' That's really how
we got started working in that.”
Rise of the Local Food Movement
There is important support that is needed to facilitate optimized
interactions between farmers, the producers of artisanal food,
supermarkets, and trade buyers.
One of the first steps was to create a trade show for the local
sustainable food industry. The first such trade show took place 11
years ago. Fifty farmers and 300 people, mostly trade buyers,
attended. The following year, a consumer show was added, and the
event has been building ever since.
Six years ago, Jim again expanded what by then was known as the
Good Food Festival & Conference, holding a financing conference to
help local farmers, food hubs, and artisan food producers to get
financing.
“Since then, we’ve done about eight million dollars of
deals,” he says. “We’ve launched something called the
Good Food Business Accelerator, which is an entrepreneur
training program for food farmers as well as food artisans.
Whole Food is a major partner in this project.
They’re a lead along with the USDA, the Small Business
Administration, UNFI, and Food: Land: Opportunity: Relocalizing
the Chicago Foodshed, a philanthropic project of the Searle
Funds at the Chicago Community Trust.
In addition, we have helped link hundreds of Chicago area
trade buyers with local farmers, food artisans, and large-scale
buyers like schools, hospitals, and universities. Even O’Hare
and Midway Airports are increasing their sustainable and local
sourcing.
And McCormick Place, the largest convention center in
America, announced a commitment to source 15 percent of their
food from local and sustainable sources at our trade show two
years ago. This year, more than 40 percent of their food will
come from local or sustainable sources.”
Chicago Public School System—A Success Story for Local Food Movement
Chicago Public Schools (CPS), which serves nearly 500,000 meals a
day, is one of the success stories of this local food movement.
Six years ago, FamilyFarmed pioneered a local food procurement
program with CPS and introduced them to regional farmers and food
hubs who sold them apples, broccoli, cabbage, corn, green beans, and
other fresh and frozen fruits and vegetables. Since the program was
launched, CPS has purchased more than $10 million in food from local
farmers.
A couple of years ago, Jim’s organization helped connect CPS
officials to Miller Poultry, an Amish antibiotic-free chicken
producer in Indiana. At the time, Miller was selling a lot of
chicken breasts to Whole Foods and thighs to the Chipotle Mexican
fast/casual chain. But they had an excess of drumsticks, and kids
like drumsticks.
“The next thing you know, with the support of the Pew
Charitable Trust and School Food Focus, Chicago Public Schools
launched the first large-scale program in America to serve
antibiotic-free chicken to public school students. CPS then
helped create the Urban School Food Alliance to collaborate with
other large-scale districts to embrace sustainable procurement,
including antibiotic-free chicken. Now New York, Houston, Los
Angeles, and other big school districts are taking CPS’
leadership and buying antibiotic-free chicken and more local
fresh fruits and vegetables.”
Antibiotic-free chicken is an important issue, as some 23,000
people die from antibiotic-resistant disease in the US each year.
Eighty percent of the antibiotics used in the US are fed to farm
animals, such as chickens, and this is a major driver of antibiotic
resistance.
This information needs to be shared with schools because many of
them are still unfamiliar with the connection between
antibiotic-treated foods and antibiotic-resistant disease.
Addressing this issue is a socially and medically responsible thing
to do. In the US, there's a national group called School Food Focus2
that can help school districts make these kinds of changes to their
food program.
More Restaurants Are Getting in on the Action
Today, many of the top restaurants in the Chicago area attend the
Good Food Trade Show, so at least regionally, there’s plenty of
participation from chefs and restaurant owners. Dan Rosenthal, a
Chicago restaurateur, has also co-founded a group called the Green
Chicago Restaurant Coalition (GCRC), which helps restaurants source
all types of things—not just food—that are “green,” such as
cleaning products or paper goods, for example. Many of the suppliers
of such goods are people he’s met at the local food trade show.
“That’s actually been a really nice program as well
because, obviously, those are going to be big buyers. They pay a
little bit more to the farmers than a big supermarket chain
because they’re not at a super high volume of purchasing. If
the farmers ask for more, they get it. For a mid-size or
smaller-size farmer it’s actually a good market because they
earn a higher premium on the product,” Jim says.
Signs That Call for Transparency Is Having an Effect
Organic was the first of these certification success stories and
now it’s over $40 billion in sales in the US. And the New York Times3
reports that in the last five years, the US Non-GMO food category
has grown to $10 billion, much of which is certified by the Non-GMO
project. According to Jim, sustainable seafood is a booming market
right now, with many different supermarkets “climbing over each
other” to prove that they are a better sustainable seafood supplier
than the others.
“Believe it or not, they’re actually angling to get
higher rankings on the Greenpeace list of sustainable seafood,”
he says. “That’s a good sign that transparency is actually
having an impact. It’s pushing retailers to source more Good
Food. I think looking at these established opportunities for
products that are certified with very defined attributes would
have independent people saying, “This is what you’re going to
get when you purchase that product that has been verified.”
I think that’s really the key now.”
Benefits of Local Food Hubs
Food hubs4
aggregate local food from local farmers, which is then sold to
supermarkets, restaurants, or other wholesale buyers. Some food hubs
also or alternatively sell directly to consumers. Food hubs serve a
critical role because, for a small farmer, developing sales and
distribution channels can be cumbersome and difficult. FamilyFarmed
has helped launch a number of food hubs and created the publication,
“Building Successful Food Hubs,” to help entrepreneurs create them.
“Five years ago, nobody even heard of the term ’food
hub,’” Jim says. “Now, they are everywhere. Food hubs are
popping up across the country. Some are successful and some are
not. It’s a tough business. You’re distributing food, which has
very low margins. There’s food safety and there’s food handling;
there’s a lot to learn in terms of doing it well.That being
said, many of them are successful. For consumers, looking for
food hubs that sell direct could be a very good way to support
the local food movement. Or look for products in supermarkets or
restaurants that are flowing through food hubs and support those
[by buying those products there]... If a consumer knows about a
local food hub, encourage the restaurants to start sourcing from
them. Those are all good ways to kind of build these
connections.”
Wholesale Success Training
Family Farmed’s Wholesale Success Training is an outgrowth of
discussions and meetings at the Good Food Trade Show. Wholesale
buyers are usually concerned about buying local foods because the
quality can be less uniform. From a vendor’s perspective, you want
food that has long shelf-life, so retaining freshness is a constant
concern.
To address these issues, FamilyFarmed created the Wholesale
Success manual to support local farmers and teach them how to
improve the shelf-life of their produce. The 300+ page book is the
definitive training source on selling into wholesale markets. It
includes topics such as Calculating Return on Investment; Cleaning,
Drying and Curing Produce; Traceability; Packing Shed Design; and
Maintaining the Cold Chain.
“Wholesale Success is the leading publication and
training program for small to mid-size producer farmers. We
teach them post-harvest handling, food safety, selling, and all
the things that small farmers need to know to be successful in
building markets selling to schools, hospitals, supermarkets, or
restaurants,” Jim says.
He adds, “The USDA has really come on as a big supporter
of this. They’ve given us more than a million dollars now to
train farmers in 35 states. It’s quite a success. A lot more
farmers are selling products to all spectrums of trade buyers
with the knowledge that they’re gaining, and their product is
better; it’s higher quality. And they’re going to meet the food
safety standards that the buyers demand.”
Mark Your Calendar: 2015 Annual Good Food Festival and Conference
Once a year, FamilyFarmed’s Good Food Festival and Conference5
is held at the UIC Forum at my alma mater, the University of
Illinois at Chicago (UIC) farm, in the Near West Side. This year, it
will take place on March 19-21. This event is open for growers, food
businesses, and consumers alike. The Financing and Innovation
conference is held on the first day. Businesses looking for
financing are showcased, and successful businesses give talks and
lectures.
The second day is dedicated to food policy discussions, featuring
many national policy leaders; the Trade Show, and the School Food
Summit. Fun breaks out on Friday night with the Localicious party,
one of Chicago’s premier food and drink tasting events, which
features local food, craft beverages and a bluegrass band. The third
and final day brings the Good Food Festival, a celebration of the
Good Food Movement that features chef demos, more than 150
vendor-exhibitors, workshops by local experts, and fun for all ages.
“You can learn about fermenting foods, gardening, sausage
making, grain milling and bread baking, seed saving, and lots of
other things. It’s the community, really caring about Good Food
and getting together. It’s mostly regional and local people, but
some national people come as well. We’re gathering the tribe, so
to speak-- having fun but also doing business and coming to
meet, being inspired by other people, and learning from them,”
Jim says.
Integrating Sweets and Desserts into a Healthy Diet
Integrating sweets and desserts into a healthy diet can be
tricky. Just because something is made with organic sugar doesn’t
make it healthy! When asked how the sweet treat issue is addressed
in the Good Food campaign, Jim notes that the goal is really to keep
the focus on lots of fresh fruits and vegetables, and to continue
educating people about the dangers of eating too much sugar.
“Quite honestly, if you sample locally grown fruits and
vegetable, they taste amazing, especially if they’re fresh,
compared to a week-old produce from California,” says Jim.
“Part of the reason people don’t eat fruits and vegetables is
the quality isn’t good, because it takes a while to get from
when it’s picked to their table. If people have access to local
fresh fruits and vegetables they will be more inspired to eat
them because they taste so good.
Also I think people need a little self-control. I know
for myself that I try to limit the amount of desserts that I
have to maybe once a week. I encourage other people to do so and
certainly avoid sodas and other things that are just mainlining
sugar into their system. But it’s a big educational challenge.”
One strategy that can help you improve your metabolic function,
potentially allowing you to process sweets better, is to increase
your daytime activity levels. Most people spend 8-12 hours sitting
down, which has very serious metabolic ramifications.
Sitting is the new smoking, raising your risk for lung cancer by
more than 54 percent. It’s actually worse for you than secondhand
smoke! It raises your risk for other cancers as well, not to mention
obesity, diabetes, and heart disease. Standing up as much as
possible and moving about more during your day, can help improve
your metabolic function so that you may process the sugar you do
eat better. Standing more is not a carte blanche to indulge in
sweets indiscriminately, but it may make the occasional indulgence
less impactful.
More Information
I'm pleased to hear there are so many positive inroads being made
to improve access to local and sustainable foods, and I hope you're
feeling buoyed by it too. We still have a long way to go, but
organizations like Family Farmed are clearly making progress. You
can help by being selective about how you spend your food dollars.
Buying locally produced foods is the most direct way to support its
continued growth.
I believe that building a food system that relies heavily on
locally grown foods is the answer to so many of our global problems,
from environmental destruction to hunger. We also need a strong
local food system if we’re ever going to rein in our out-of-control
disease statistics, which are rooted in an unhealthy processed food
diet. To learn more about all of the programs, conferences and
trade shows discussed in this article, please see the following
websites:
If you reside in the US, the following organizations can also
help you locate farm-fresh foods:
|
Weston Price Foundation10
has local chapters in most states, and many of them are
connected with buying clubs in which you can easily purchase
organic foods, including grass fed raw dairy products like
milk and butter. |
| Local
Harvest -- This Web site will help you find
farmers' markets, family farms, and other sources of
sustainably grown food in your area where you can buy
produce, grass-fed meats, and many other goodies. |
|
Farmers' Markets -- A national listing
of farmers' markets. |
| Eat Well
Guide: Wholesome Food from Healthy Animals --
The Eat Well Guide is a free online directory of sustainably
raised meat, poultry, dairy, and eggs from farms, stores,
restaurants, inns, and hotels, and online outlets in the
United States and Canada. |
| Community
Involved in Sustaining Agriculture (CISA) --
CISA is dedicated to sustaining agriculture and promoting
the products of small farms. |
| FoodRoutes
-- The FoodRoutes "Find Good Food" map can help you connect
with local farmers to find the freshest, tastiest food
possible. On their interactive map, you can find a listing
for local farmers, CSAs, and markets near you. |
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